After visiting Costa Rica, I wanted to share my experience to give others an idea of what to expect. These are based on my trip to the Guanacaste region (Pacific side) where I visited the towns of Tamarindo, Playa Del Cocos and Islita (next to Samara). A lot of these points may overlap with each other but I’ve tried to categorize them the best I can.
1. Costa Rica is both Expensive and Overpriced
This place is the playground for wealthy Americans and everything is marketed towards them. It’s a third world country with first world prices. You may experience sticker shock when looking at the cost of lodging, food and activities. It’s expensive because you will be paying similar prices as large North American cities but overpriced because the food, lodging and infrastructure will be of far lower quality compared to what you get elsewhere. For example, a simple meal for two at an average restaurant will easily cost you at least $60 (without drinks). Drinks are priced the same as an expensive city like New York with a cocktail costing between $12 to $20 USD + tax and tip. If you’re from an expensive city in the US, the prices may seem normal but for Canadians and Europeans, you will find it generally more expensive than back home while the food will be more bland and lacking in spices. You could save some money by eating at the local restaurants which I planned to do but eating plain rice and beans got tiring pretty quick. You can also cook your own meals but I've got some bad news for you. Groceries are just as overpriced as the restaurants. Here are some prices from my visit to the Vindi (Grocery store) in Tamarindo.
A can of Tuna is $4.60
Half a dozen (6) eggs will cost you about $4, twice the price in Canada. (A dozen sells for $5 in Canada)
Bread (Dollar store quality) - $6
A kiwi is $3 each
$2.50 for 1 bell pepper
A gallon of water is $6.50
Prices will be lower the further away you move from tourist areas but still on par with Canada. Tours often start at $150 and go up to $300. It’s one thing if the money was going to the locals but considering that Costa Ricans do not earn such high salaries, it does beg the question of where all this money goes? The businesses seemed to be all owned by foreigners so it felt like our tourist money was subsidizing North Americans who wanted to live in Costa Rica and that all of our tourist money was going right back to the US/Canada. If I'm complaining about prices, I can only imagine how hard it is for the locals to live here.
In general, while premium experiences command premium prices, I found the prices not in line with the food/lodging/services received. Expect to pay twice the price of a hotel or restaurant compared to neighbouring Mexico while getting half the quality.
2. The wildlife is all around you!
With Costa Rica practically being a rainforest, there are wild animals all around. From early morning, you can hear the sounds of birds singing and you will encounter them everywhere throughout the day. There are so many different species including Herons, various parakeets and even Scarlet Macaws. I think the most magical moment for me was hearing loud “caw caw” sounds and looking up to see a trio of gorgeous macaws flying overhead while I was swimming in the pool. Now that’s a moment I’ll never forget! It’s also common to hear and see howler monkeys. I spotted monkeys in the trees around town in Tamarindo while going for an evening walk. Sometimes I spotted hummingbirds flying around in the trees. During the day, I spotted vultures gliding overhead in circles looking for a meal. Make sure to slow down and take the time to look around, there’s life everywhere!
3. You can watch turtles laying their eggs AND baby turtles hatching
During the turtle nesting season, which often runs around December to March, you can join a guide and head to the beach at night for this surreal experience. As we walked through the forest after dusk to reach the beach, we turned off our flashlights and followed the guide with his red light (red light does not affect the turtles). We then sat down under a tree and waited patiently. Eventually, we spotted a black hump over in the shallows and as it dragged its body forward, its flippers and shell revealed themselves under the moonlight. The turtle slowly climbed up the beach and once she had found a spot she was happy with, she slowly started digging a hole using her hind flippers. We watched in awe as she dropped dozens of ping pong shaped eggs in. After laying her eggs, she filled the nest with sand and slowly ventured back out in the ocean.
Meanwhile, another little miracle was taking place further down the beach. New born hatchlings were emerging from an existing nest. As we approached the nest, we were asked to line up on the sides of the nest but not in front. Slowly but surely, these new babies were emerging one after the other with their instinct guiding them towards the ocean. I had watched this on David Attenborough’s shows before and released baby sea turtles in Bali and this was a special moment! I highly recommend this tour if you are visiting during the turtle nesting season.
4. Be prepared for water outages (Your hotel can run out of water)
While I was prepared for the prices ahead of time, I was not at all prepared that our hotel would completely run out of water. This happened to us twice during the first 4 days of our trip. According to them, this was a common occurrence. During this time, we were unable to use the toilet or take a shower. When we went out for dinner to the restaurant next door, they also advised that the restaurant and this area of town were out of water and could only offer us bottled water (at $6 per bottle). Having grown up in Mauritius and Mozambique, I'm no stranger to the difficulties or conveniences that are considered basic comfort in developed countries and I completely understand that water can be scarce in some countries but when we paid $2300 for a small bedroom in Tamarindo for a week and a half, we felt like we were being ripped off.
Earlier that morning, I got very sick and had started going to the bathroom frequently. It's real fun to not be able to flush the toilet while being sick. By day 4, we seriously considered either driving up to the border or flying back home but ended up staying since none of our lodging or flights were refundable. Luckily the hotel was able to hire a truck to deliver water within a few hours and we managed to shower and go to the bathroom by the end of the night. This may not happen to you but you should know that it can. When searching for hotels, make sure to read all the details and reviews as some only offer cold water while others might have similar issues (the reviews may help you). This one for example does state “no hot water”. It seemed common in Tamarindo because I frequently saw trucks marked “Potable Water” making deliveries around town.
5. Do not drink the tap water
I had read from blogs raving about Costa Rica how it was the only country in Central America where you could drink the tap water. When I arrived, I asked the Tica who works at the front desk and she told me the water is technically potable but she doesn't drink it. In her own words "my son drinks it but he's still alive so..." That should have been my first clue. We both got violently sick soon after drinking the tap water so I’d say proceed at your own risk. My condition improved by switching to bottled water only. I also got violently sick again from eating the local ice cream made from crushed ice so my advice is to avoid the tap water altogether. The other tourists I met there including those who moved there also never drink the tap water. Be warned that it costs $2.60 for a single 1L bottle of water (1000 colones) and upwards of $5-7 at a restaurant. You can buy big gallons of water at the grocery stores.
6. Bring medication in case you get sick
Visit your local pharmacy before leaving for your trip and they will recommend several things to bring with you like Imodium, electrolyte packets, nausea medication and antibiotics. Buy them all, you will be glad you did later! This leads me to my next point
7. Pack Heavy
Pack as much as you can; granola bars, lotion, toothpaste, face wash and as much sunscreen and bug spray (with deet) that you can fit into your suitcase. All of these items will cost you at least twice (sometimes 3 times) what it does in the US/Canada and you’re going to need them and wish you had brought more if you run out. I don’t recommend trying to make it to Costa Rica with a carry on alone. I also suggest bringing snacks as the food can be disappointing (more on that later).
8. Costa Rica’s Macaws were near extinction!
Due to habitat lost from deforestation, the macaws in Costa Rica were almost extinct. However, thanks to the great work of the people at the Macaw Recovery Network https://macawrecoverynetwork.org/ and the designation of huge areas of the country as National Parks, they are now making a comeback. I highly recommend visiting their breeding center in Islita. You’ll have an opportunity to watch them as they fly in for their morning or evening snacks! These macaws were bred at the Sanctuary and released into the wild. Some still live close enough to come by for snacks whereas the bolder ones have started spreading further out and repopulating their original habitats.
The macaw to the right
9. The food is average at best
The local cuisine consists mostly of plain rice and beans, pasta and a protein
If you’ve already started reading about Costa Rica, then you know that you don't go there for the food (I’ve seen this said online many times in a derisive tone towards anyone who complains about Costa Rica). The local cuisine consists mostly of plain white rice and beans with a protein. While I was prepared for that, I didn’t quite understand what it would mean to eat rice and beans loaded with salt and no seasoning every day. After a few meals, we quickly grew tired of it and started looking for alternatives. We started eating out more at international restaurants but it turned out to be more expensive than back in Canada for food that was hit or miss in terms of taste and quality. Prices vary by country and usually I don’t mind paying more for good meals but we weren’t getting what we paid for here. We eventually settled on just buying groceries and preparing some simple meals. We felt validated when speaking to other tourists that the food and the price had been a major disappointment. I recommend bringing lots of snacks from home. I had brought protein bars which helped a lot.
The grocery stores are also expensive here but the quality is very poor. It’s the type of stuff you find at the dollar store in Canada like pasta sauce and bread with added sugar. The best meal I had was at an Indian restaurant ($72 for 2 curries) and the worst meal was a seafood salad that consisted of spinach drowning in oil and crushed seeds that tasted like an oil and sand salad (around $25). Eating in Costa Rica reminded me of my days in college.
10. It’s hot and sunny
During the dry season, it barely rains in areas like Guanacaste. This means it’s hot and sunny every single day with clear skies and few clouds. It makes for perfect vacation weather without having to worry about rain. During the 3 weeks we were there, we didn’t see a single drop of rain. Make sure to wear a hat and sun protection though. The UV rays are very intense in the middle of day but drop quickly mid-afternoon.
11. It's not a beach destination
Do not expect the beaches on the Pacific side to be similar to the stunning beaches of Mexico and the Caribbean. The sand is mostly brown/dark which makes them absorb extra heat and turns the surface very hot during the day. The beaches are also very rocky, the water tends to be very wavy and on the cooler side so they're not good for swimming or snorkelling but they are great for surfing and for long sunset walks.
Playa Del Cocos is great for evening walks and watching the sunset but the water is wavy and murky and not for swimming
The beach in Tamarindo can get pretty crowded and it’s not a good place for a beach vacation
12. Tamarindo is a great place to learn how to surf
I took a surf lesson here and it was a lot of fun! The waves were consistent and kept on coming so we never really had to wait. Try to go in the morning as the sun is a lot more intense in the afternoon. Bring sunscreen (very expensive here) and a hat with a lanyard so you don't lose it. I'm not an experienced surfer but as a beginner, it was a good experience and I enjoyed it a lot! I don’t actually recommend staying in Tamarindo as it’s expensive and crowded with trashy tourists but if you rent a car you can drive into town for your lesson. The surf schools are located at the entrance of the town near the estuary.
13. You might find critters in your room
This will depend on the quality of the hotel you are staying at but generally not all of them have properly sealed rooms meaning there may be gaps under the doors and around windows. This means it’s not uncommon to find insects like ants and lizards indoors. My hotel in Tamarindo had a warning that you may find crabs in the shower. I didn’t encounter any but I did find a gecko in my room above the bed. Although I was used to it from growing up in Mauritius, I was not used to it screaming throughout the night and waking me up. At a gift shop in Islita, I also found a live scorpion on the t-shirt I was buying.
14. The tropical fruits are juicy and delicious
Pineapples, watermelon, passion fruit, bananas and mangoes are locally grown and available almost everywhere. The fruit stands are hard to come by in tourist areas like Tamarindo but other areas like Playa del Cocos have a lot more vendors. You can also easily find them on the roadside. The supermarkets also sell a wide selection of fresh local fruits. Make sure to try them, they make great healthy snacks.
15. Pipa Frias! (Cold Coconuts)
You can get fresh ice-cold coconuts from the beach vendors and nothing tastes as delicious on a hot sunny day when you are thirsty. You will notice the vendors around as they usually have a cart with some coconuts but sometimes they are stored inside large coolers. Prices range from 600 colones to 1000 colones (approximately $1-2 USD). Once you are done, you can return the coconut shell back to them and they will cut it open in half so you can scoop out and eat the cream of coconut inside!
16. 13% tax will be added on your bill
There is a 13% sales tax on services in Costa Rica. Some venues include it in the price like the rest of the world but some choose to add it on top like in Canada/USA. Usually the menu/website will note something like “13% sales tax included” or “taxes not included”. Just remember to factor it, specially when paying for expensive tours or meals.
17. Tipping is mandatory (10%)
A 10% service charge will be added to your bill at restaurant and bars. Similar to the tax, it may or may not already be included in the advertised price. The menu will clarify whether you need to add it. So for example when you see a cocktail listed for $15 USD, remember that it’s +23%, similar to taxes & tip in Canada/USA.
18. The roads are in shambles
The roads are narrow and usually only have one lane in each direction and it is shared amongst cars, scooters, trucks, horses, drunk tourists on golf carts and pedestrians. They tend to have sharp winding turns and steep inclines/declines. If you are taking a shuttle or taxi, you will notice the drivers tend to accelerate and brake suddenly as they try to pass slower vehicles in front of them. The road between Tamarindo and Coco for example is submerged in water at one point. In some areas, the roads are not paved so you will feel all the bumps and rocks on the roads. If you are prone to motion sickness, please carry nausea medication with you. On the way back to the airport, I was so ill from eating the local ice cream and with the land cruiser tumbling like the inside of a washing machine, I found myself throwing up most of my breakfast (carry a bag or ziplock with you so you can grab it quickly if there’s no time to put down the window).
19. Rent a car or be prepared to shell out hundreds every time you want to move around
The private shuttles will happily charge you at least $100 USD every time you want to go somewhere. Our resort charged us $220 USD + 13% tax one way to pick us up from the airport. It's easier to get around with a car but be mindful of road conditions, traffic and your own comfort in driving in a foreign country. You will need a 4 wheel drive vehicle with the highest road clearance you can find.
20. It takes a very long time to get around
Continuing on from my previous point, there aren’t any major highways so plan ahead and check the map. For example, Tamarindo and Playa Del Cocos are only 50 km apart but it takes about an hour and a half of driving. Liberia Airport and Samara/Punta Islita are 126 km apart and takes a little over 2 and half hours. If you are staying on the Pacific Coast, the National Parks may be 3 hours away or more from the Beach Towns.
21. You can buy an eSIM before arrival
You can purchase your esim ahead of time on the Airalo App and install it so you're connected as soon as you land and can call your driver on Whatsapp and use Google Maps without searching for WiFi. The airport WiFi for example does not extend too far outside where your driver or shuttle might be waiting in the parking lot. If you sign up with my referral code C0887, you’ll get $3 USD off your first esim purchase!
22. Pura Vida
Oh how to explain this. It’s supposed to mean the Pure Life. To the surf shop that I called for confirmation before showing up, it meant they didn’t want to rent me a surfboard because they wanted to close early. To one tourist, it meant drinking while driving with his beer in hand. To the person who wrote this blog, it means forcing a smile when you may have to wait 20 minutes at an ATM to withdraw money. To the hotel owner who belittled the guest who complained about critters in her room, it meant she didn’t understand the beauty of Costa Rica.
After a few days here, to us it meant something like shut up and deal with it. You have diarrhea and there’s no water to flush the toilet or take a shower? Pura Vida. I found a scorpion on my t-shirt? Pura Vida. Dinner was expensive and wasn’t even good? Pura Vida. I just threw up in the car from drinking the tap water? Pura Vida.
The funniest one I heard so far was “Potholes? Yeah, they slow you down so you can look around and see where you are” from a Tripadvisor comment.
23. USD Dollars and credit cards are accepted in most touristy areas
You may get a lower exchange rate though but in general, many places will accept payment in US dollars (cash). You will likely receive change in Colones only though. If you are Canadian, always pay in Colones as you will be losing money exchanging CAD to USD then getting change in Colones. The supermarkets have better exchange rates than the forex counter at the airport.
Credit cards are also accepted pretty much everywhere which makes payments streamlined. The terminal will often ask you if you want the transaction in USD or Colones. If you are not American, it’s usually more cost effective to select Colones.
Takeaway
There is a lot of homework and reading you should do when planning a trip to Costa Rica. It’s not the kind of place where you just book a flight and go. In the end, this trip made me appreciate all the amazing countries I had the chance to visit before Costa Rica and I returned home grateful.
You might be interested in the following:
