After seeing the stunning photos of freedivers in the cenotes of Mexico, I knew I wanted to travel to Playa Del Carmen to learn how to freedive. I had always loved diving on the reef and it felt like a natural progression to continue training towards becoming a better freediver. There’s something very peaceful about exploring the ocean with just a mask and a breath of air. Now, you won't exactly get to experience the real Mexico in PDC as several areas feel very Americanized but for someone who is visiting Mexico for the first time or wanting to get out of the resort, it's a great first experience!
PDC has many amenities and services available for locals and tourists alike. You can fly into Cancun Airport (although there is a new PDC Airport opening) and take the ADO Bus directly from the airport. Once you exit the Airport, there will be a booth with "ADO" written on it where you can purchase your tickets. The buses run hourly and cost under $20 one way. They are large coach busses that have plenty of space to store your luggage. You can alternatively prebook a private transfer which costs more but is more convenient. This may be required if you are arriving late. My flight was delayed and I arrived after 10:30 pm and there were no buses running at that time. The bus stops at all the terminals at the Airport and then heads to Playa Del Carmen.
1. Lodging
PDC has lots of condos available for rent on Airbnb. These condos often have swimming pools and usually include air conditioning (make sure to check, especially if you are going in the hot summer months. I've also heard of cases where they charged extra for AC on top of the Airbnb amount). Some have a gym and bar as well. I stayed at a condo a couple of blocks away from 5th Avenue. 5th Avenue is the main street in PDC and it runs parallel to the beach. If you want to feel like you're in the US, this is where you'll want to stay. Otherwise I recommend staying a few blocks away where you can find local eateries with authentic Mexican cuisine rather than burgers and pasta. 5th Avenue is also very touristy and noisy with its numerous clubs and bars so the further away you can get, the better and more authentic it will feel.
2. Transportation
Playa Del Carmen is a very walkable town. If you need to get around for longer distances, you can take a taxi. There are numerous taxi stands around town or you can simply wave one down from the side of the road. Make sure to have cash on you (preferably pesos) and agree on the price before getting. They generally follow a fixed price depending on which zone you are going to https://solmayarentals.com/yucatan-vacation-resources/taxi-rates/ . Note that in Mexico, the currency sign for pesos is the same as the dollar ($) so it may get very confusing sometimes.
Before getting in the cab, just tell the driver where you want to go first. Some may not speak English so it helps to learn a bit of Spanish or simply use Google translate. For example if you would like to go to 20th Avenue North, that's avenida 20 norte. "Cuánto?" means "how much". It is usually less than 100 pesos when traveling within PDC.
3. Safety
I was obviously apprehensive about my safety at first due to the media but I never felt unsafe there. I stayed in a somewhat busy area (stay close to 5th avenue if you are worried but that area is very touristy and gets loud at night with the clubs and bars). I also met several solo female travelers during my time there. Just take the basic precautions like don't walk alone late at night in unpopulated areas, don't flash your cash in the street, don't buy illegal drugs, that sort of thing. I also walked alone at 6 am in the dark to go paddleboarding before sunrise and while it did feel a bit eerie, it wasn’t any worse than big cities back home in Canada. In fact, I saw some people who were still heading home from the night before. If you have an iPhone, you can share your location with your friends and family. On Android, you can use WhatsApp to share your live location if you are concerned. Additionally, I also keep an AirTag in my backpack so my partner always knows where I am when I am travelling solo.
4. FreeDiving
I signed up for the SSI Freediving Course with Blackfin Freediving and I wasn't quite sure what to expect. They sent me the training materials to watch ahead of time on the SSI App. When I arrived at the shop on the first day (they will send you directions to their shop after you sign up), we started the initial theory portion right away followed by a quiz. Then we tried on some wetsuits, fins and masks and headed to the the gorgeous cenotes by car. Cenotes are freshwater sinkholes that are connected to other water systems underground. Some are cave-like while others feel like swimming in mangroves. The water is often crystal clear near the surface with a deep blue hue. We practiced 1 minute breath holds and several safety exercises on the first day. The first cenotes felt more like a river system in the mangroves with a maximum depth of only 6 metres; perfect for beginners. Over the next 2 days, I went diving at different cenotes where I practiced my freediving and rescue skills using the line to guide me. To pass the course, you will be required to demonstrate all the safety procedures at a minimum of 10 meters depth. These include rescuing your buddy who's blacked out at 10m and taking off your mask and ascending to the surface without it. The instructors will stay with you the entire time in case you need help.
Freediving is one of the most at peace and calm I've ever been in my life. It feels like the world and the mind just stop and it's only you and the water. If you like yoga/meditation and the ocean, you're probably a perfect fit to be a freediver. I also think that because the cenotes don't have any waves and the wildlife is limited to small colourful fish, the calming environment in the cenotes only enhances the experience. I've tried freediving in the ocean when it was very wavy and it was a vastly inferior experience.
The calm cenotes allow for pool-like calm conditions and are perfect for freediving
There are also other dive shops located in the area like Amancay and Pranamaya. While I didn't go with Amancay, they were quick to respond when I inquired for my Level 2. I also know someone else who completed his Level 1 with Pranamaya and he had only positive things to say.
One thing to note is unfortunately if you tend to get cold like me, it's going to be very difficult to freedive because once I start to get cold, my muscles tense up which makes my jaws tighten up. I then have trouble equalizing and holding my breath and it feels like I am suffocating only a few meters below the surface. You might require a thicker wetsuit, vest or hood if you tend to get cold. I also met a freediver who wore two wetsuits and that allowed to him to maintain his body heat (the less body fat you have, usually the more cold you will feel). I visited in December and the water temperature was on the cooler side at that time of the year. You may also experience some equalization issues which are pretty common. While the course takes 3 days, it's best to allow yourself extra time in case you are unable to complete all the skills or need more time to equalize at depths.
5. Do I need to know Spanish?
It is of course helpful if you can speak Spanish however for the most part, everyone is very welcoming. Most of the waiters and receptionist at hotels speak English. If you are planning to do touristy activities like scuba diving or paddleboarding, your tour guide is almost guaranteed to speak both English and Spanish. I suggest downloading the Spanish language pack on the Google Translate App to help you out if needed. For example, the attendants at the Laundromats often don't speak English so you may need some help translating.
A little known fact is that there are a lot of foreigners who work in Mexico. There is a large community of thousands of Argentinians who live and work here. They speak fluent English and Spanish. I met several of them while in Playa Del Carmen and it was wonderful to meet other immigrants like myself who moved somewhere new to start a new life and hear all about their experiences
6. The Beach
Parts of the beach almost disappear during winter as most of the sand is eroded away by the waves. Whatever beach is left is overrun by beach chairs from all the beachfront hotels. In my opinion, this isn’t the place to book a beachfront resort, there’s public access to the beach from the town and it can get pretty crowded. It’s not the sort of beach where you’re going to enjoy some peace and quiet. It's better suited for partying and tanning. If you are looking for calm beachfront resorts, places like Tulum are a much better option though you will be far from nearby towns.
7. The Food
One of the highlights of visiting Mexico is the mouthwatering local food! This area of Mexico specializes in the Al Pastor tacos which consists of pork or chicken cooked on a vertical rotisserie grill, similar to a shawarma. The sight and amazing smell of the sizzling meats always enticed me to walk right in and order a couple of them. It's also a delight to watch the cook carve out each slice of meat and carefully place them on a soft corn tortilla then top it with a slice of pineapple. The tacos often served with salsa, freshly chopped onions and coriander. Heavenly.
My other favourites were the Cochinita Pibil (pulled pork sandwiches), quesadillas, ceviches and also make sure to try a marquesita! There are plenty of delicious and budget friendly local food but there's also international restaurants if you prefer that.
Unfortunately I didn't find any coconut street vendors but several cafes and restaurants did serve them. Most places sell various local beers to accompany your meal with Modelo being a very popular choice. Expect to spend $10-$15 (including a beer) when dining at a local eatery. International/American restaurants were closer in price to the US but I never bothered eating there anyway. Why go all the way to a country with some of the most amazing food in the world to eat pizza and burgers?! I found the waiters friendly and service was usually fast. The standard tip for dining out was 10%.
8. Do You Need Cash?
Almost all shops and restaurants in PDC accept credit cards. This is the way to go because you don't need to carry around a lot of cash and the credit card exchange rate is better than what you get at the ATM or when exchanging money. I recommend checking if your bank has an ATM close to where you're staying. As a Canadian, I found out that Scotiabank has 2 ATMs close to where I was staying. If you have a Tangerine debit card, you can use these ATMs without paying any fees, just make sure to notify the bank before travelling so your card doesn't get blocked.
9. Bullsharks
While I wanted to visit PDC primarily for the cenote freediving, the winter months also provide an opportunity to scuba dive with pregnant Bull Sharks who visit the area in the winter! PDC is also a great place for Scuba Diving!
Conclusion
I love my time in Playa Del Carmen and learning to freedive was one of the best things I’ve experienced in my life. I think in the end, you have to ask yourself what are you looking for from this trip? This town is very Americanized but if you're coming here to dive in the cenotes for example, you won't be disappointed. Your experience may highly depend on where you are staying. The closer to 5th Avenue you are, the less authentic it is. Nonetheless there is a decent beach, the food is amazing and it's a great way to experience Mexico outside of the resorts.
I am so grateful for making it there, it was one of the best trips of my life!
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